Best Bow Square for Setting Nock Point Height: 5 Picks
The best bow square for setting nock point height is a metal T-style square with a thin string arm and clear 1/8-inch marks; start your nocking point about 1/8 inch high for a recurve and use the manufacturer’s center-shot and arrow-rest specs for a compound.
This guide is part of our Bow measurements guide series.
If you set it wrong, the first arrows will leave with bad nock travel, poor crawl, or a compound paper-tune headache that burns hours. I have chased those mistakes on my own bows, and the fix always started with the square.
I’ll show the exact home setup I use, how to measure brace height and nock point height, and the mistakes that cause bad first-round tuning.
What a bow square does for nock point height
A bow square is a simple L-shaped measuring tool that reads from the bow string to a reference point on the bow, often the rest or grip area. I use it for brace height first, then for string nock points, because the string mark only makes sense once the bow is already at its baseline setup. Every archer needs a bow square or bow gauge, and it is quick to use.
The tool does one job well: it cuts guesswork out of the setup. It helps measure brace height, it helps measure string nock points, and it gives you the same starting point each time before you shoot. I have seen a bad string mark send clean arrows into strange launch habits, while the square itself was still sitting right in the drawer.
Bow square vs. bow gauge: same job, different label
Retailers may call the same basic tool a bow gauge. In practice, I treat a bow square and a bow gauge as the same setup tool. What matters is that the arm is thin enough to sit on the bow string, the body reads clearly, and the shape lets me measure from string to a known reference without slipping around.
Some models are easier to read than others. I prefer clear marks over fancy packaging. If the numbers are hard to see, you will mark the wrong spot and then chase that mistake with tuning.
My first compound bow was set 10 lb too heavy; I flinched for a month before I backed the limb bolts out.
What bow square is best for your setup?
The best bow square is the one that fits your bow string cleanly, reads clearly, and is rigid enough to hold a mark without flex. For home setup, I want metal, a thin string arm, and easy-to-read increments. That gives me a steady reference for brace height and for placing string nock points without second-guessing the line.
I also look for a square that sits neatly on both a recurve bow and a compound bow string. If the tool is bulky, it can hide the exact spot where the nocking point should go. If it is too loose, it skates on the string and makes the mark less reliable.
Material and readability
Metal is my first pick because it stays straight and does not twist as easily as cheap plastic. Readability matters just as much. I want marks I can see in a dim garage, because most home tuning happens when the light is not perfect and the first mark has to be correct.
Clear 1/8-inch marks help when I am nudging a recurve nock point up or down. I am not hunting for a fancy feature. I want a tool that gives me a straight answer fast.
Fit on recurve and compound strings
A bow square should grip the string without forcing it. On a recurve, I use it often for the string-to-rest reading and for setting the nocking point. On a compound, I still use it, but I keep the rest setup and the manufacturer’s reference points in mind so the nock mark matches the arrow rest and loop geometry.
That fit matters more than people think. A square that rides crooked on the string gives you a crooked reference, and crooked references become bad arrow starts.
Features that make marking easier at home
I want three things: a thin arm, readable marks, and a shape that lets me press a clean string reference. A dull or vague tool slows everything down. A clear edge helps me place two nocking point marks that line up on the bow string instead of one sloppy, wandering line.
If you are buying one tool for basic tuning, that is enough. You do not need a complicated setup to begin.
What should I measure first, brace height or nock point height?
Measure brace height first, then mark the nock point height. Brace height sets the bow’s baseline, and that baseline changes the string relationship you use for the nocking point. If you mark the string first and then alter brace height, your nock reference can move enough to spoil the first tune.
I learned that lesson on my own gear years ago. I was working from the wrong order and kept blaming the arrow until I corrected the setup sequence. Once the bow was set first, the string mark made sense.
Why the first measurement changes the second one
Brace height is the string-to-grip or handle reference. It tells you where the string sits on the bow before you start placing the arrow. If that number is off, the bow square gives you a valid reading from the wrong baseline, which is still the wrong setup.
Set the bow first. Mark second. Shoot third.
How do you use a bow square to set the nocking point?
To set the nocking point, place the bow square on the string and use the rest or grip reference to read a repeatable height, then mark the bow string on both sides of the arrow nock location. The nocking point is the string attachment reference for the arrow nock, and its height affects how the arrow leaves the string. For a recurve, I usually begin with the nock point slightly above square; for a compound, I follow the rest and loop setup from the bow’s tune plan.
I keep the process simple. If the arrow nock starts in the wrong spot, the arrow leaves the string with a bad attitude. That shows up fast in flight, especially on a recurve.
Place the square on the string and rest or grip reference
Seat the square on the bow string first. Then let the lower arm rest against the reference point you are using, often the arrow rest in a practical setup. On a recurve, that gives me a clean place to read from the string down to the shelf or rest area. On a compound, I use the same measuring habit, but I keep the rest and loop arrangement in view.
Do not guess from memory. Put the tool on the bow and read it there.
Mark the first nocking point
Once I have the reference, I mark the string nock point carefully. I make two small marks, one above and one below the arrow nock location, so the arrow nock clips between them. That keeps the mark visible and gives me a center point that is easy to return to if I have to adjust later.
On my home range, I prefer a thin, clear mark over a heavy blob. Heavy marks hide the exact spot, and exact matters here.
Double-check the arrow nock position
Clip the arrow nock to the string and look at how it sits relative to the rest height. The arrow should leave from the same place every time. If the nock sits too high or too low against the rest setup, you will see it in the first few arrows instead of later when the mistake is harder to trace.
This is where people often stop too early. I do not. I want the arrow nock aligned before I call the setup good.
Does the same bow square work for recurve and compound bows?
Yes, the same bow square can work for recurve and compound bows, though the way I use the reading changes. On a recurve bow, the square often helps me set brace height and the initial string nocking point directly. On a compound bow, I still use it for setup references, but I also pay close attention to the arrow rest height, D-loop or nock arrangement, and the bow’s own tuning instructions.
That difference matters. Same tool. Different job emphasis.
| Setup area | Recurve bow | Compound bow |
|---|---|---|
| What I measure first | Brace height | Brace height, then rest and loop reference |
| What I mark | String nock points above the square reading | Reference mark tied to the rest and nock system |
| What I watch after shooting | Clean arrow launch and stable flight | Clean launch, center-shot behavior, and paper tune |
| Common mistake | Setting the nock before brace height is confirmed | Ignoring rest height and loop alignment |
Where string marks and rest height matter most
On a recurve, a bad nocking point can make the arrow kick or fishtail before the first tune is even underway. On a compound, the arrow rest height and the nock position have to agree, or the arrow starts from a stressed position and the paper tear tells on you.
I have seen both problems. My first compound bow was set 10 lb too heavy, and I flinched for a month before I backed the limb bolts out. That same habit of checking the actual setup, not my assumptions, saved me later when string marks needed correction.
Can I set nock height without a bow square?
You can, but I would not recommend it for home setup. Without a bow square, you are guessing at the same reference the tool is built to show. That makes the first nock point mark less reliable and the first shot cycle harder to interpret, especially on a recurve bow where small changes matter quickly.
If you want repeatable tuning, use the square. It is simple, and it keeps your starting point honest.
How high should a nocking point be above square?
I do not treat nock height as one fixed number for every bow. For a recurve, I usually start a little high and then confirm it with a short shooting check. For a compound, I use the bow’s center-shot and arrow-rest specs first, then verify that the arrow nock and rest are agreeing during the first shots.
That starting point is only a starting point. The bow tells you the rest.
Step-by-step nock point setup checklist
This is the order I use at home. It keeps me from chasing the wrong problem and helps me catch bad string marks before I waste arrows. The check at the end matters as much as the first mark.
- Set and confirm brace height with the bow square.
- Confirm the arrow rest or shelf reference is correct.
- Place the bow square on the bow string and read the nocking point location.
- Mark two small string nock points around the arrow nock position.
- Clip the arrow nock and confirm it sits level with the rest setup.
- Shoot three arrows and watch the first launch, not just the group.
- Adjust only if the launch or impact pattern gives a clear reason.
Sanity-check the result after shooting three arrows
After three arrows, I want a clean start, not a perfect group. I look for a smooth release from the string, no obvious kick at launch, and no sign that the nock is fighting the rest. If the first arrow leaves ugly, I do not ignore it just because the group is close.
A few arrows are usually enough to tell me whether the mark is in the right neighborhood. If the launch looks wrong, I move the nocking point in small steps and try again.
Common mistakes that throw off nock height
The biggest mistake is measuring on an unconfirmed brace height. The second is reading the square from the wrong reference point. The third is ignoring what the arrow does after the first shot, which turns a small setup error into a long tuning session. The tool is easy to use, but only if the order is right.
I also see archers trust one mark and stop there. A single mark is not a tune. It is a guess until the bow proves it on the shot line.
Measuring on the wrong baseline
If brace height moves, the nocking point reference can shift with it. That is why I always confirm the baseline first. I want the square reading to mean the same thing every time I put it on the string.
Reading the square from the wrong bow reference
Some archers read from the wrong part of the grip, shelf, or rest and then wonder why the arrow start feels odd. The bow square only works if the reference is the one you planned to use. Keep the contact point consistent and the reading becomes useful.
Ignoring arrow flight after the first marks
Bad nock placement shows up in the shot. It can create poor arrow launch, a compound paper-tune headache, or a recurve that seems to “snap” as the string clears. If the first few arrows tell you something is wrong, adjust the nocking point in small steps.
Frequently asked questions
What bow square is best for setting nock point height?
I prefer a metal T-style bow square with clear marks and a thin string arm. It reads cleanly, fits the string without much wobble, and gives me a dependable reference for string nock points. That matters more than extras I will never use at home.
How do you use a bow square to set the nocking point?
I place the square on the bow string, read from the chosen rest or grip reference, and mark the string on both sides of the arrow nock position. Then I clip the arrow nock, check the alignment, and shoot three arrows to see whether the launch is clean.
Do I need a bow square for brace height too?
Yes. Brace height is one of the main jobs of the bow square, and I always confirm it before I mark the nocking point. If brace height is off, the nock reading is built on the wrong baseline, and the rest of the tune can drift with it.
What is the difference between a bow square and a bow gauge?
In practice, not much. Retailers often use bow gauge as another name for the same basic tool. What matters is that it can measure brace height and string nock points accurately enough for your bow string, rest, and arrow nock setup.
Can I set nock height without a bow square?
Yes, but it is guesswork. I do not recommend it if you want repeatable results at home. A bow square gives you a clean starting point, and that keeps you from chasing a bad launch caused by a nocking point that was never measured well.
What should I measure first, brace height or nock point height?
Brace height first. Always. I set the bow’s baseline, then I mark the nocking point. If you reverse that order, the second measurement can be wrong even if the tool reading looked fine the first time.
Does the same bow square work for recurve and compound bows?
Yes. I use the same basic tool on both, but I do not use it the same way. Recurve setup leans harder on brace height and a straightforward string nock point. Compound setup still uses the square, but the rest, loop, and center-shot details need more attention.
How high should a nocking point be above square?
I start about 1/8 inch high for a recurve, then I confirm it with a short shooting check. For a compound, I follow the bow’s setup specs and rest geometry first. There is no fixed height that fits every bow, so I always let the shot confirm the mark.
