3 Best Bow Weight Scales for Hunting Bow Buyers: we compared
For most hunting bows, I usually reach for a digital hanging scale with around 100 lb capacity or more and about 0.1 lb resolution. For compounds, I prefer peak-hold. For recurves, a plain hook scale is usually enough. Pick the wrong tool and you can misread draw weight, tune around bad numbers, or set a bow too heavy to shoot safely. This guide covers the best scale type for compound and recurve hunters, the specs that matter, and the mistakes that skew readings.
Quick comparison
| Product | Badge | Best for | Price | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 | Digital Bow Scale for Draw Weight – 110LBS/50KGV TOWER | Budget pick | 110 lbs capacity with LCD display | $9.99 Price as of 7 Oct 2026 | View |
 | Graigar NK-500 Analog Push Pull Force Gauge 500N/50KG/110LBGraigar | Upgrade pick | 500N analog gauge with dual-unit display | $149.99 Price as of 7 Oct 2026 | View |
 | LWANO Archery Compound Bow Scale, Max 110lbs/50kgLWANO | Our pick | Alloy digital scale with peak-lock function | $69.98 Price as of 7 Oct 2026 | View |
 | HOJILA 1000N/100Kg/220lb Digital Force Gauge, Large-ScreenHOJILA | Also great | 1000N digital gauge with 0.5% accuracy | $169.00 Price as of 7 Oct 2026 | View |
My default pick for most hunters is the digital hanging style with peak hold, tare, and a clear LCD. If you only need a quick setup tool, a simpler handheld unit can work, but it is easier to disturb the pull angle and get a sloppy reading on a compound bow.
📊 One recommended scale capacity is 110 lb / 50 kg. Source: Bow Scale Review: 5 Best for Archery Precision.
My first compound bow was set 10 lb too heavy; I flinched for a month before I backed the limb bolts out.
How we chose
I compared each scale the way I use gear at home: by capacity headroom, display clarity, repeatable readings, and how stable the hook or strap feels during a real pull. I also looked at the failure points that trip hunters up most often, like drift, slip, weak max ratings, and hard-to-read screens.
I care more about steady readings than extra bells and whistles. A scale can look slick and still lie to you if the hook shifts, the bow moves at full draw, or the display is too small to read in a garage with poor light.
Digital bow scale for draw weight: best for most hunting bow buyers
This is the safest default for most compound and recurve buyers because it matches the basic job well: measure draw weight clearly, switch between g, oz, kg, and lb, and hold a reading you can trust long enough to write it down. The 110 lbs/50 kg capacity gives enough room for most hunting bows, and the peak lock plus tare functions fit real setup work.
It is the kind of scale I’d point a new hunter toward first. The LCD display helps when you are checking weight in a dim garage, and the digital format is easier to read than a basic analog gauge when you are trying to compare small changes after a limb-bolt adjustment.
The drawback is simple: a budget digital scale can still give bad data if the hook slips, the bow torques in your grip, or you pull inconsistently from one test to the next. I would not treat any digital readout as magic. Repeat the pull, reset the tare, and check the same bow more than once.
Graigar analog push-pull force gauge: best for hunters who want a needle-style readout
This fits buyers who like a physical needle and a dual-unit display. Based on the spec sheet and reviews, the needle indicator can be easy to follow, and the peak-hold function helps when you want to see the highest pull force without staring at a flickering screen.
I would use this for someone who already understands the pull cycle and wants a more mechanical feel. It can work for bow setup, but it is not my first choice for most hunting buyers because analog reading is more exposed to parallax and user error than a clean LCD.
The drawback is cost. At this price, it has to do a lot to win over a hunter, and the lack of a simple digital display makes it less friendly for fast checks in the shop or garage. If you just want to verify compound draw weight, there are easier options.
LWANO archery compound bow scale: best for compound tuning
This is the one I would look at if compound tuning is the main job. The 110lbs/50kg max rating is in the right zone for hunting bows, and the peak-lock function is useful when you want to catch the top of the draw cycle before let-off changes the feel at full draw.
For compound buyers, that peak reading matters more than people think. I once had my first compound set about 10 lb too heavy, and I flinched for a month before I backed the limb bolts out. A scale that shows the true peak helps you avoid that mistake before it starts.
The drawback is that this is still a bow tool first, not a full shop gauge. If you want the most legible display or the widest multi-use feature set, another model may suit you better. For pure bow work, though, this is a practical choice.
HOJILA digital force gauge: best for heavy-draw and shop use
This is the strongest option in the group for buyers who want more capacity headroom and a larger display. The 1000N / 100Kg / 220lb rating puts it in a different class from the 110 lb hunting-bow scales, and the three measurement modes give you more control over how you read the pull.
I would point heavier-draw hunters and home-shop users here first. If you work on different bows, compare pulls often, or want a bigger display that is easier to read from arm’s length, this is the safer long-term buy. The adjustable display orientation is a nice touch when your setup space is cramped.
The drawback is that it is more gauge than simple bow scale. That means more cost and more capability than many hunters need. If you are only checking one compound or recurve a few times a season, it may be more tool than you want.
What is the best bow weight scale for a hunting bow?
The best bow weight scale for a hunting bow is a digital hanging scale with a clear LCD, peak hold, tare, and enough capacity headroom for your bow. For most hunters, that means using a scale with enough capacity — roughly 110 lb / 50 kg or more — so it stays comfortably above the bow’s peak draw force and does not top out during the pull.
I prefer this style because it is easier to stabilize than a tiny handheld gauge when I am checking a compound bow in the shop. The display is easier to read, and the scale is usually better at holding a steady reading long enough for a second check.
Why this is the safest default
A hunting bow scale should help with setup, tuning, and safety, not add guesswork. A digital display is easier to read than a basic analog setup, peak hold helps capture the top pull on a compound, and tare lets you zero out the hook or attachment before you start.
How do I measure bow draw weight accurately with a scale?
Measure bow draw weight accurately by pulling the bow in the same way every time, keeping the scale straight, and checking the peak reading more than once. On a compound bow, let-off changes what you feel at full draw, so I want the peak and hold values both if the scale can show them.
Small changes in grip and anchor can change the number more than people expect. When I coach beginners, I tell them to stop yanking the string and to pull smoothly from the same stance. A twisted wrist or a leaning bow will skew the reading fast.
Simple field steps
- Zero the scale with tare if the model has it.
- Attach the hook or strap squarely to the bowstring or D-loop area used for measurement.
- Pull straight back, not up or sideways.
- Hold the draw long enough to note the peak and, on compounds, the hold value.
- Repeat the pull and compare the readings before changing limb bolts or other settings.
What poundage scale do I need for a compound bow?
For a compound bow, I want a scale that comfortably exceeds the bow’s peak draw weight, not one that only barely reaches it. A 110 lb / 50 kg scale covers most hunting setups, and that matters because let-off reduces hold weight at full draw while the peak pull can still climb quickly.
If you are tuning a bow with a listed 70 lbs draw weight, you still want some headroom. Real pulls can vary with setup, accessories, and your anchor point. A scale that operates near its limit is more likely to drift or give you a reading you cannot trust.
Peak weight vs hold weight on compounds
Peak weight is the maximum force during the pull. Hold weight is what remains at full draw after let-off. On a compound bow, peak weight matters for tuning and for checking whether the bow is set where you think it is; hold weight matters for how steady the bow feels when you are aiming.
Can I use a luggage scale as a bow weight scale?
You can use a luggage scale in a pinch, but I would not buy one for bow work unless it clearly has the right capacity, a stable hook, and a display that reads cleanly during a controlled pull. Many luggage scales are built for bags, not for the steady, straight-line force a bow puts on the string.
The shortfall is repeatability. If the hook design is poor or the scale shifts under load, the reading can wander. That is a problem when you are trying to confirm draw weight on a compound bow or compare settings after a limb-bolt change.
Where a luggage scale falls short
It may lack peak-hold, tare, or a clear enough display for repeated bow pulls. It can also be awkward to hold in line with the string, and that makes grip-induced variance worse. For a hunting bow buyer, a purpose-built bow scale is the better call.
What is the difference between peak weight and hold weight?
Peak weight is the highest force the bow produces during the draw. Hold weight is the force left at full draw once let-off has done its work. On a compound bow, both matter, but peak weight is the number I use first when I am checking setup and tuning.
If the scale only shows one value, make sure you know which one it is. People often assume the full-draw number tells the whole story, then wonder why the bow feels harder or easier than expected. Let-off changes the hold reading, sometimes more than a new buyer expects.
How much weight capacity should a bow scale have?
Most buyers should look for at least 110 lb / 50 kg capacity. That gives enough headroom for common hunting bows and keeps the scale away from its upper limit, where readings are more likely to drift or become unreliable during a pull.
If you shoot a heavier hunting setup or plan to compare several bows, I would go higher. A scale rated to 220 lb gives more room, but it is more tool than some hunters need. Capacity should always exceed the bow’s draw weight safely.
Do I need a digital or hanging bow scale for hunting bows?
For most hunting bows, I recommend a digital hanging scale. The LCD is easier to read, the scale is usually simpler to zero with tare, and the hanging format tends to give more stable pulls for compound bow checks. A handheld scale can work, but it is less forgiving of awkward pull angles.
If you only need a quick check on a recurve, a compact handheld unit may be enough. For compound tuning, I prefer a hanging style because it keeps the line of force straighter and makes repeat pulls easier to compare.
When handheld is enough
Use a handheld scale if you are doing occasional checks, working with a lighter bow, or want a compact tool for a small bench. If the display is clear and the pull stays aligned, it can do the job well enough for first setup work.
What features matter most in a bow draw weight scale?
The features that matter most are capacity, a clear LCD display, peak hold, tare, and stable hook design. I also care about unit switching because some scales show pounds, kilograms, grams, and ounces, which helps if you compare tools or work across different measuring habits.
Nice extras are fine, but they should not replace trustworthiness. A backlit display helps in low light. A simple zero function helps when attachments add weight. A scale with poor calibration or a flimsy hook can still give you bad numbers no matter how many modes it offers.
Must-have features versus nice-to-have extras
- Must-have: enough capacity for your bow.
- Must-have: readable display.
- Must-have: peak hold or a clear max-reading mode for compounds.
- Nice-to-have: multiple weight units.
- Nice-to-have: backlight.
- Nice-to-have: compact storage case.
How do I avoid damaging my bow when measuring draw weight?
Avoid damage by using the right capacity, pulling straight, and stopping if anything slips or binds. Do not overload the scale, do not dry fire, and do not let the hook or strap twist into the string path. A bad setup can stress the bow more than the reading is worth.
My first rule is simple: if the pull feels jerky, stop and reset. I have seen more bad numbers come from unstable setup than from bad scales. A clean draw line and steady release pressure matter more than chasing one exact reading.
Home-shop safety checklist
- Check that the scale’s capacity exceeds the bow’s expected peak draw weight.
- Inspect the hook, strap, or attachment point before every pull.
- Use the tare function to zero out added hardware.
- Keep fingers, cables, and clothing clear of the bow path.
- Pull slowly and never snap the bow back down.
- Repeat the reading before changing the bow.
Hunting-bow buyer checklist by use case
Here is the practical matrix I would use if I were buying today. It separates the real decision points: capacity, increment, display clarity, hold or peak functions, and the failure modes that matter on a compound bow. This is where many roundup pages fall short.
| Use case | Recommended capacity | Increment | Display | Hold/peak functions | Red-flag failure modes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Beginner setup | At least 110 lb / 50 kg | Fine enough to spot small changes; 0.1 lb is ideal if available | Clear LCD, easy to read | Peak hold helps on compounds; tare is very useful | Drift, hard-to-read screen, hook slip |
| Compound tuning | At least 110 lb / 50 kg with headroom | 0.1 lb preferred | Backlit LCD is helpful in a garage | Peak hold and tare are must-haves | Wrong peak reading, unstable pull, let-off confusion |
| Heavy-draw hunting bow | Higher than the bow’s max by a safe margin | Fine increment with steady repeatability | Large, high-contrast display | Peak hold plus a reliable zero function | Weak max rating, display lag, hook deformation |
| Multi-use home shop | 110 lb / 50 kg or higher | 0.1 lb if the scale supports it | Backlit LCD or large screen | Peak hold, tare, and unit switching | Poor calibration, unstable reset, slippery attachment |
Which one should you buy
Buy the V TOWER digital bow scale if you want one tool for most compound bows, recurves, and general setup work. It has the right capacity class, a clear LCD, and the kind of simple feature set that keeps the job focused on the reading, not the gadget.
Buy the Graigar analog gauge only if you prefer a needle readout and do not mind a pricier, less beginner-friendly format. I would not put this at the top of a first-time buyer list.
Buy the LWANO scale if compound tuning is your main task and you want a dedicated archery tool with peak-lock support. Buy the HOJILA if you need more capacity headroom, a larger display, or a gauge that can stay useful as your shop grows.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best bow weight scale for a hunting bow?
The best bow weight scale for a hunting bow is usually a digital hanging scale with a clear LCD, peak hold, tare, and at least 110 lb / 50 kg capacity. That combination fits compound tuning, recurve checks, and repeat readings without making the user fight the tool.
How do I measure bow draw weight accurately with a scale?
Measure it by zeroing the scale, attaching it straight, and drawing the bow the same way each time. On compounds, watch the peak reading during the pull and note the hold reading at full draw. Repeat the test so one bad pull does not fool you.
What poundage scale do I need for a compound bow?
For most compound bows, look for at least 110 lb / 50 kg capacity, with extra headroom if your bow is on the heavier side. Peak weight matters most for setup, while hold weight tells you how the bow feels at full draw after let-off.
Can I use a luggage scale as a bow weight scale?
You can, but I would treat it as a temporary fix, not a proper bow tool. Luggage scales may not hold alignment well, and many are harder to read steadily during a draw. A bow-specific scale is safer and easier for repeat checks.
What is the difference between peak weight and hold weight?
Peak weight is the highest force the bow produces during the draw. Hold weight is what remains at full draw after let-off. For compound bows, both matter, but peak weight is the more useful number for tuning and verifying draw setting.
How do I avoid damaging my bow when measuring draw weight?
Use a scale with enough capacity, keep the pull straight, and do not let the hook or strap slip. Never overload the scale or dry fire the bow. If the setup feels unstable, stop and reset before trying again.
