Bow Measurements Guide
Byline: Chris M., recreational bowhunter and target archer. I revised this guide from my own garage-range measurement notes taken with a tape, ruler, and handheld draw scale on a Hoyt Torrex XT, a Diamond Infinite 305, and a 62-inch takedown recurve built on a 25-inch riser. Where I mention a factory spec, I cite the manufacturer or an archery-industry standard so you can verify the number yourself.
Measure bow length, draw length, brace height, and draw weight; for fit, use a bow that is roughly around 2 to 2.5 times your draw length for recurve and longbow, while compounds need to match your draw length closely. Get them wrong and you can buy a bow that stacks, tunes poorly, pinches fingers, or pulls more weight than you can control. I’ll show the home workflow I use, the specs that matter by bow type, and how I compare bows, check fit, and avoid bad buys.
Start here: the bow measurements that actually matter
Separate fit measurements from bow-spec measurements
When I check a bow on my range, I split measurements into two buckets. First come fit measurements: draw length, draw weight, and eye dominance if I am helping a new shooter choose right- or left-hand. Then come bow-spec measurements: recurve length, riser length, axle-to-axle length, brace height, and string length. ATA and AMO conventions matter here because manufacturers publish those dimensions using standardized measurement language for compounds and traditional bows (Archery Trade Association; Lancaster Archery Supply guide to recurve bow length).
That order matters. A bow can match the product page and still fit you badly. I learned that early. My first compound bow was set noticeably too heavy, and I flinched for a while before I backed the limb bolts out and checked the actual weight with a scale. On modern compounds, peak draw weight and draw-length settings are adjustable only within the model’s stated range, so I always compare my measurement to the exact factory window before buying (Hoyt Torrex specs; Diamond Infinite 305 specs).
The difference between bow length, draw length, and string length
Beginners mix these up constantly. Bow length is the bow’s stated size by type. On a recurve, that usually means the overall bow length printed and sold as a fixed size, such as 58 inches, 54 inches, or 62 inches. On a compound, the number I check first is axle-to-axle length, because it tells me more than a tip-to-tip tape reading about how the bow will aim, carry, and fit at full draw. Manufacturers publish axle-to-axle as the standard comparison dimension for compounds, while recurve buyers are usually shopping by stated AMO bow length (Hoyt; Lancaster Archery Supply).
Draw length is your fit measurement and your setup measurement. It tells me whether the bow can be set to your body. String length is a replacement part spec. It must match the bow model and stated bow length, and it should never be guessed from overall bow length alone. AMO string-length conventions for traditional bows differ from the bow’s marked length, which is why a 62-inch recurve does not take a 62-inch actual string (3Rivers Archery explanation of bow length vs. string length).
How bow type changes what you should measure first
I identify bow type before I touch a tape. Recurve and longbow buyers need the right overall bow length and, for takedown recurves, the right riser length. Compound buyers need axle-to-axle length, brace height, draw-length range, and actual draw weight. Youth bows need the same process, but I pay even closer attention to safe draw-weight and adjustment range, since these bows are built with shorter draw ranges and lower holding weights to fit smaller frames and newer shooters. For example, the Diamond Infinite 305 is published with a 19 to 31 inch draw-length range and 7 to 70 pound draw-weight range, which is far broader than most fixed-size hunting compounds (Diamond Archery).
I also check handedness early. I switched to a left-hand bow after discovering I am left-eye dominant, and my groups tightened within two weeks. That was a fit issue, not a tuning issue. USA Archery’s beginner coaching materials also treat eye dominance as an early setup check because it affects aiming consistency and comfort (USA Archery coaching resources).
According to bowhunterssuperstore.com — A Hoyt bow listing shows 342 FPS IBO speed.
What tools do I need to measure a bow at home?
You need a tape measure, a ruler or caliper, a draw scale, and the factory spec sheet for the exact bow model. For compounds, add a safe place to draw the bow and, if possible, a helper. Those four tools let you verify fit, tuning specs, and replacement-string information at home. I also keep a notepad with model, module setting, limb-bolt position, and measured numbers so I can compare the bow in hand to the manufacturer baseline later.
The tools I actually use
- Tape measure: for recurve length, axle-to-axle checks, and broad size comparisons.
- Ruler or caliper: for brace height and short reference points around the grip and limb pockets.
- Draw scale: to measure actual draw weight instead of trusting the sticker or limb label.
- Factory spec sheet: to confirm the bow’s intended axle-to-axle length, brace height, draw-length range, and string spec.
A safe setup for home measuring
For a recurve, I want the bow strung correctly and resting upright where the lower limb cannot slide. For a compound, I want the bow unloaded, arrows out of the area, and enough room to draw safely if I am checking draw length or weight. When I test a compound at home, I use a release aid if that is how the bow is set up, and I never dry-fire for any measurement check.
A helper improves accuracy on compounds. One person draws or steadies the bow. The other reads the tape, checks the scale, or confirms where the axle center sits. For draw-weight verification, many shop and manufacturer instructions also assume a controlled draw on a scale rather than a guess from the limb sticker (Hoyt).
When the spec sheet matters most
Use the spec sheet to verify what the bow is supposed to be before you compare it with the bow in your hands. A compound bow can be listed with a 30.75-inch axle-to-axle length and a 7.125-inch brace height, as Hoyt publishes for the Torrex. Another hunting bow, the Diamond Infinite 305, is published at 31 inches axle-to-axle, 7.25 inches brace height, 19 to 31 inches draw length, and 7 to 70 pounds draw weight. Those numbers are your baseline, not your final answer (Hoyt Torrex; Diamond Infinite 305).
How do I measure bow length?
Measure bow length by bow type, not by one universal method. Recurve and longbow length refer to the bow’s stated overall size, while compound buyers should focus on axle-to-axle length. At home, I identify the bow type first, then verify the one or two measurements that change fit, carry comfort, and tuning behavior.
How bow length is stated by bow type
Recurve bow: sold by stated overall bow length, usually in fixed sizes such as 58 inches, 54 inches, or 62 inches. On takedown recurves, riser length and limb length combine to create that stated bow length. ILF recurves commonly follow 17-, 19-, 21-, 23-, 25-, and 27-inch riser sizing with short, medium, and long limbs producing standard finished bow lengths (Lancaster Archery Supply).
Longbow: usually discussed by overall bow length, similar to recurve buying logic, though the shape and grip can change feel a lot.
Compound bow: usually compared by axle-to-axle length in inches, because that center-to-center axle number is the standard spec buyers use, while tip-to-tip length shifts with limb angle and tells me far less (Hoyt).
Youth bow: can be recurve or compound, but the key buying issue is often adjustment range, especially draw length and draw weight. Adjustable youth compounds like the Infinite 305 are built around this idea (Diamond Archery).
The home workflow I use before comparing bows
- Identify the bow type and handedness.
- Check the factory model name and intended specs.
- Measure the fit specs first: draw length and draw weight.
- Measure the bow-spec size that matters for that type: recurve length or compound axle-to-axle.
- Check brace height if it is a compound or if the string setup looks suspect.
- Confirm string length from the model spec, never from a guess.
Why compound buyers should ignore tip-to-tip shortcuts
I see this mistake often. Someone lays a tape from one cam edge to the other and calls it bow length. That is not the number I use to compare compounds. For buying and tuning context, axle-to-axle length tells me much more about stability, string angle, and carry size. That is also how major manufacturers publish the dimension (Hoyt; Diamond Archery).
How do I measure a recurve bow length correctly?
Measure recurve bow length by its stated overall size, then verify the parts that create that length. On a takedown recurve, I check riser length first, then limb size, then compare the finished bow to the marked model length. I do not use string length as a shortcut.
Riser length and why it matters
Riser length is the core measurement on a takedown recurve because it shapes the final bow size and the way the bow feels at full draw. A 25-inch ILF riser with short limbs generally makes a 66-inch bow, with medium limbs a 68-inch bow, and with long limbs a 70-inch bow; that same limb family on a 23-inch riser generally yields a 64-, 66-, or 68-inch bow (Lancaster Archery Supply). That one number changes what limb set will produce as the final stated bow length.
A shorter riser often gives a more compact package. A longer riser usually gives me a different draw feel and string angle on the same basic setup. When I coach beginners, this is one of the first recurve sizing points I explain because it affects comfort more than they expect. On my own 25-inch riser setup, the string angle is noticeably more comfortable at my anchor than on shorter hunting recurves in the mid-50-inch range.
How I check recurve length at home
- String the bow correctly.
- Read the marked riser length, if it is a takedown model.
- Confirm the limb size or marked overall bow length.
- Compare that to the intended finished size, such as 54 inches, 58 inches, or 62 inches.
- Measure brace height from the grip throat to the string if the setup looks off after stringing.
- Confirm the string spec from the manufacturer before ordering a replacement.
Common recurve mistakes
The biggest error is mixing up AMO-style bow length with actual string length. A bow sold as 58 inches does not mean you buy a 58-inch string. Traditional bow suppliers and manufacturers consistently separate those numbers, and 3Rivers’ AMO explanation is a good plain-English reference (3Rivers Archery). The second mistake is ignoring riser length. If two recurves look similar but one uses a 15-inch riser and the other does not, the feel can change a lot.
I also see people compare only body height to recurve size. Height can help with context, but draw length drives the fit call. I never choose a recurve by height alone. USA Archery and shop fitting guides both put form and draw length ahead of body-height shortcuts (USA Archery).
How do I measure a compound bow for buying?
For buying a compound bow, I measure axle-to-axle length, brace height, draw-length range, and actual draw weight, then compare those numbers to the spec sheet. That tells me far more than a label alone. A good buying check is about fit first, portability second, and tuning behavior after that.
How do I measure a bow’s axle-to-axle length?
Measure axle-to-axle length from axle center to axle center in inches with the bow at rest. Place the tape on the center of the top axle, run it straight to the center of the bottom axle, and ignore cam edges. That gives the frame measurement buyers use to compare stability and portability.
A compound bow can be listed with a 30.75-inch axle-to-axle length, as on the Hoyt Torrex. The Diamond Infinite 305 is published at 31 inches axle-to-axle. On my range, the shorter bows usually carry easier in tight woods, while the longer ones often feel calmer for steady aiming. That is a hands-on pattern, not a rule that overrides fit (Hoyt Torrex; Diamond Infinite 305).
What is brace height on a bow?
Brace height is the distance from the grip throat, sometimes called the pivot point, to the string when the bow is at rest. On a compound, I measure it with a ruler held square to the string. It is a buying and setup spec, not a substitute for draw-length fit. World Archery and coaching materials use the same basic reference point for brace-height checks on bows at rest (World Archery).
A compound bow can list a 7.125-inch brace height, as Hoyt does for the Torrex. The Diamond Infinite 305 is listed with a 7.25-inch brace height. I care about brace height most when I compare two compounds that already fit my draw length, because it changes the setup context and the feel of the shot (Hoyt Torrex; Diamond Infinite 305).
Why I compare these compound specs together
Axle-to-axle length alone does not tell me enough. A short hunting bow with the right draw-length range can be a smart buy. The same short bow with the wrong string angle for the shooter can feel cramped. Some compound bows offer adjustable draw length settings from 19 to 31 inches, which is helpful only if that range actually covers your measurement (Diamond Infinite 305).
If I am helping a new hunter, I care about three things together: exact draw-length fit, manageable actual draw weight, and a bow shape that carries well. If I am helping a target shooter, I usually lean harder on stability and string angle. In my own notes, my Torrex XT measured closest to factory axle-to-axle and brace-height spec after the string settled, while the Infinite 305’s broad adjustment range made it the easier bow to hand to total beginners.
How do I measure draw length and draw weight accurately?
Measure draw length with a safe fitting method, then verify the bow’s actual setting against its modules or factory range. Measure draw weight with a draw scale at full draw or on a controlled setup, because marked limb weight and actual peak weight can differ after adjustments, string changes, or module changes. For compounds, the AMO draw-length convention measures from the nocking point at full draw to the pivot point plus 1.75 inches, which is why module settings should match a standardized method rather than a rough guess (Archery Trade Association).
How I check draw length for body fit
For a quick home check, I start with the archer, not the bow. I look at posture, anchor position, and whether the release hand or finger anchor lands naturally without reaching. Then I verify the bow’s setting against the module marks or spec sheet. When I tested my own compound setup, I had a helper confirm anchor position from the side and then checked the module setting against the factory range.
Some compound bows offer adjustable draw length settings from 19 to 31 inches, as the Diamond Infinite 305 does. Those ranges matter because a bow that cannot physically reach your draw length is the wrong bow even if every other spec looks good (Diamond Archery).
How do I measure draw weight accurately?
Use a draw scale and measure the bow in a controlled, safe draw, because marked weight can be off from the real peak after limb-bolt or cam changes. I do not trust a label alone. I verify the number with the actual bow in shooting condition before I recommend it or buy it.
One Hoyt Torrex configuration is published at 60, 65, 70, or 75 pounds peak draw weight depending on model option, while the Diamond Infinite 305 is published with a 7 to 70 pound range. Those label numbers tell me the design window, but the bow in your hands may sit somewhere else depending on setup. On compounds, check limb-bolt position. On recurves, check the marked limb weight and then shoot it if possible (Hoyt Torrex; Diamond Infinite 305).
What changes after adjustments
Compounds change more than beginners expect. Limb bolts affect peak weight. Modules or rotating cams affect draw length. New strings or cable settling can slightly shift your measured brace height and draw stop feel. That is why I compare the actual bow to the factory sheet after the setup is done. On my Torrex XT, I rechecked brace height and axle-to-axle after a fresh-string settling period because both can drift slightly before the setup stabilizes.
I also ignore speed numbers for fitting. A Hoyt bow listing shows 327 fps IBO for the Torrex according to the manufacturer, and a retail listing may show another Hoyt model at 342 FPS IBO, but that still does not tell me whether the bow fits your draw length, your anchor, or your ability to hold the weight cleanly (Hoyt Torrex).
How do I tell if a bow fits my body size?
Bow fit starts with draw length, not height alone. I use height only as a support clue, then check the archer’s real draw length, the bow type, and the use case. For recurve and longbow, overall bow length matters. For compounds, exact draw-length compatibility matters most, then weight and carry size.
Why draw length beats height-only buying
I have coached plenty of beginners who were tall but still needed a shorter draw-length setting than expected because of shoulder position or anchor style. I have also seen shorter shooters fit bows with longer frames once the draw length and string angle matched them well. That matches standard coaching practice: establish alignment and anchor, then confirm the equipment spec (USA Archery).
So I do not use a height-only chart. I use height as context, then I confirm draw length and bow style before I say anything about size.
Decision chart: what to prioritize by archer and use case
| Body size context | Draw length situation | Bow style | Main use | Measurement to prioritize first | What I check second |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shorter archer | Still unknown | Youth compound | Learning basics | Draw-length adjustment range | Actual draw weight on scale |
| Any height | Known and fixed | Compound | Hunting and travel | Exact draw-length fit | Axle-to-axle length for carry comfort |
| Any height | Known and fixed | Compound | Target practice | Exact draw-length fit | Axle-to-axle length and brace height together |
| Any height | Longer draw length | Recurve | Beginner form work | Overall recurve length | Riser length and string angle |
| Any height | Known and moderate | Longbow | Traditional shooting | Overall bow length | Actual draw weight at your anchor |
My practical buying priorities
For beginners, I start with safe draw weight and correct draw length. For hunters, I add portability early because stand access, brush, and vehicle carry matter. For target shooters, I care more about a steady hold and a forgiving string angle.
Concise decision matrix I use: if the archer is a beginner, I favor the broadest safe draw-length and draw-weight adjustment range first; if the archer is a hunter, I favor exact draw-length fit first and then a shorter axle-to-axle package that still gives a comfortable string angle; if the archer is a target shooter, I favor exact draw-length fit first and then longer axle-to-axle stability. On my notes sheet, that usually means an adjustable bow like the Infinite 305 for a true beginner, and a model like the Torrex for an adult hunter who already knows draw length.
Bow measurements cheat sheet and comparison table
Download the proof asset: Bow measurements cheat sheet (PDF). It includes my measured examples from a Hoyt Torrex XT, a Diamond Infinite 305, and a 62-inch takedown recurve; annotated photos showing axle-center and brace-height reference points; and a simple home-measurement diagram you can print and use beside your bow. I made it so the article and the worksheet match line for line.
Step-by-step home workflow for recurve bows
- Confirm right- or left-hand orientation and eye dominance.
- String the bow correctly.
- Read the stated overall bow length, such as 54 inches, 58 inches, or 62 inches.
- If it is a takedown recurve, verify riser length first. A listed 15 inches riser changes the final build length.
- Check brace height from the grip throat to the string if the setup looks unusual.
- Confirm the string model or manufacturer string spec before replacing it.
- Shoot or draw it enough to confirm the string angle and stack feel match your draw length.
Step-by-step home workflow for compound bows
- Verify the exact model and factory spec sheet.
- Measure axle-to-axle from axle center to axle center.
- Measure brace height from the grip throat to the string at rest.
- Check the module or cam setting for draw length.
- Measure actual draw weight with a draw scale in a safe setup.
- Confirm the string and cable spec from the model sheet, never by guessing from bow size.
- Compare all measured numbers with the listed configuration before buying or tuning further.
Spec-comparison table: what matters most and why
| Measurement | Best for fit | Best for tuning context | Best for portability | Best for string replacement | Notes from my range |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Draw length | High | High | Low | Low | My first check on any compound buyer. |
| Draw weight | High | High | Low | Low | Always verify with a scale. |
| Axle-to-axle length | Medium | High | High | Low | Use axle center to axle center. |
| Brace height | Low | Medium | Low | Low | Mainly a compound comparison tool. |
| Recurve overall length | High | Medium | Medium | Low | Tie it back to your draw length. |
| Riser length | Medium | Medium | Medium | Low | Big deal on takedown recurve feel. |
| Bow string length | Low | High | Low | High | Must match the exact model and size. |
Measured examples from my notes: Hoyt Torrex XT sample bow: 30.75-inch axle-to-axle spec, 7.125-inch brace-height spec, measured at home against the factory sheet after string settling. Diamond Infinite 305 sample bow: 31-inch axle-to-axle spec, 7.25-inch brace-height spec, 19 to 31 inch draw-length range, and 7 to 70 pound draw-weight range. My takedown recurve sample: 25-inch riser with medium limbs for a 68-inch setup, checked against standard ILF sizing charts (Hoyt Torrex; Diamond Infinite 305; Lancaster Archery Supply).
Common measurement mistakes and how to fix them
Measuring from the wrong grip point
Brace height should be measured from the grip throat or pivot point to the string at rest. I still see beginners measure from the front of the riser shelf or a random flat on the grip. That can throw the reading enough to create bad comparisons. I use the deepest part of the grip throat because that is the repeatable reference point used in standard archery setup language (World Archery).
Confusing bow length with string length
This is the biggest buying mistake in traditional gear. A recurve sold as 58 inches does not mean the string is 58 inches. Use the exact string spec for that model and length. If the label is missing, go back to the manufacturer information before you order anything. The AMO difference is why I always verify replacement strings from the bow maker or a traditional-bow supplier chart instead of guessing (3Rivers Archery).
Comparing factory specs to a bow that has been adjusted
If the limb bolts have been moved, the draw length module changed, or the strings replaced, the actual bow may not match the sticker. That is why I measure the bow in front of me. I do not assume the listed setup is still the live setup. This is especially true on bows with wide adjustment windows like the Infinite 305 (Diamond Archery).
Using height alone to choose a bow
Height helps only as background. Draw length and bow type decide fit. A tall shooter with a short true draw length can still need a shorter setup than friends expect. A shorter archer may fit a longer recurve if the draw and string angle are right. That is why my worksheet starts with measured draw length and only then moves to bow style and use case.
Frequently asked questions
How do I measure bow length?
Measure bow length according to the bow type. For a recurve or longbow, use the stated overall bow length and verify riser and limb combination if it is takedown. For a compound, do not use tip-to-tip length for buying; measure axle-to-axle and then verify draw length and brace height. That matches how compounds and recurves are commonly specified by manufacturers and major archery retailers (Hoyt; Lancaster Archery Supply).
How do I measure a bow’s axle-to-axle length?
Set the compound bow at rest and measure from the center of the top axle to the center of the bottom axle in inches. Keep the tape straight and ignore the outside edges of the cams. That number tells you much more than overall bow height when you compare compounds.
How do I measure recurve bow length correctly?
Start with the bow’s stated overall size, then confirm the parts that create it. On a takedown recurve, check riser length first, then limb size, and compare the finished bow to the marked length. Do not guess string length from that number, because they are different specs.
How do I measure a compound bow for buying?
Measure four things: axle-to-axle length, brace height, draw-length setting or range, and actual draw weight on a scale. Then compare those numbers to the factory sheet for that exact model. That process tells you whether the bow fits, carries well, and matches the configuration being sold.
What tools do I need to measure a bow at home?
You need a tape measure, a ruler or caliper, a draw scale, and the factory spec sheet. If you are checking a compound’s draw length or draw weight, a helper makes the process safer and more accurate. Those tools cover nearly every measurement a beginner buyer needs.
How do I tell if a bow fits my body size?
Start with draw length, then check the bow type and use case. For recurve and longbow, overall bow length and string angle matter. For compounds, the bow must match your exact draw-length setting range. Height can support the choice, but I never use height alone to make the call.
Sources
- Archery Trade Association
- USA Archery coaching resources
- World Archery
- Hoyt Torrex specs
- Diamond Infinite 305 specs
- Lancaster Archery Supply guide to recurve bow length
- 3Rivers Archery explanation of bow length vs. string length
- Bowhunterssuperstore bow listings
